Front Page of the LA Times Valley Edition Today May 4, 2001
BIG Swell and Santa Ana Winds in So Cal
|
I had had different plans for Friday night, tonight, but when my eyes saw the front page of the LA Times, everything changed... I left the LA DWP, downtown LA around 6:00 PM, hit the water around 7:00PM at Sunset Beach, right under Gladstone's 4 Fish on PCH and Sunset BLvd. I Bodyboarded till about 9:00PM, yes, 9 PM. Gladstone's has powerful projectors pointed at the sea, so I was riding monsters at night. Caught about 6-7 BULLS, one of them broke like a Wedge wave, scared the hell out of me, I was on top of the wave gazing at an abyss. I could not slide down, I threw the board away and plunged into white-water. Got tossed couple times, did not do a nose-dive though, thank God. There was a bunch of people that met me at the beach, I told them, "Don't know what it looked like from here, but it was scary out there...". They said "You're crazy!". I had a tense week. I feel peaceful now though. Rami
E. Cremesti |